Saturday, August 15, 2009
Superfund Cleanup
Location For The Night: Jail House Hostel, Lehigh Gap, PA
Miles Walked Today: 20.80
Day Number:
59
Our room at the Travel Inn was a dump but we were too tired to complain. The carpet had not been vacuumed and the bedspreads were dirty and full of cigarette burns. Some of these places take advantage of those afoot.
But the Gap Diner certainly does not. Our breakfast there was one of the best we have had to date. Their pancakes were fluffy and tender - just right. And, as I was paying for the meal, two different local customers volunteered to run us back up to the trail. We graciously accepted one of the offers and were walking at 7:30am. Thanks folks.
We "cameled up" (drank a lot of water) before leaving town and had all our water bottles full. Today's walk covered another dry section of trail. The weather was very warm and sunny all day.
As we started up the mountain I realized, for the second time this trip, that my tent stakes were missing. Dumb me. Flaxseed and I discussed our options and I called Tammy at Ye Olde Backpacker, an outfitter in Port Clinton, PA, to have her bring me some stakes to Lehigh Gap, the next highway crossing. Tammy was my savior in 2007. She took me to the hospital in Easton, PA, when I had Lyme disease.
We had planned to cross the Lehigh River at Lehigh Gap, grab my new tent stakes from Tammy, continue hiking another two miles and camp. But as we and the day grew hotter our plans changed in favor of another town stay.
Then we entered to the Palmerton Superfund site, a rocky ridge north of Lehigh Gap deforested due to zinc smelting from 1898-1980. In other words, a barren five mile long wasteland with no shade. This section, with its long detour (there was no detour in 2007) around the cleanup area confirmed our decision to go to town. The sun was boiling hot.
Flaxseed predicts that the government is using the Superfund money to "take off the whole top of the mountain, bring in some new material, and re-forest the area."
After skirting the reclamation area we negotiated the rocky, steep descent to PA Highway 248, crossed the Lehigh River Bridge on PA Highway 873, and met Tammy and Antonio, her new Eagle Scout employee, at the hiker's parking area. Tammy and I had a joyful, heartfelt reunion. I got my stakes and they drove us to to the Jail House Hostel in Palmerton, PA, located in the basement of an old city building. We registered at the police station, took long, hot showers, ate big dinners at Bert's Diner across the street, and topped them off with Bert's soda fountain ice cream. Man, that's livin'.
Today we walked from Wind Gap, PA, trail mile 910.3, to Lehigh Gap, PA (though we went back north into Palmerton for the night), trail mile 931.1, a total of 20.8 hot miles for the day.
I failed to take any photos today, but have included one of the Henry Shires' Tarp Tent that I sleep in occasionally when I'm not in town.
May the God of Heaven bless all of you.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Raptor Count
Location For The Night: stealth campsite near Allentown Hiking Club Shelter
Miles Walked Today: 17.40
Day Number:
60
We slept late today because Bert's Diner did not open until 8:00am on Sunday. Then we crossed the street and ate breakfast. After breakfast John Bujcs (pronounced Boojis) gave us a ride back to the trailhead. John, from nearby by Weissport, PA, was on his way to his brother's house in Bethlehem, PA, for his weekly Sunday visit. He said these Sunday visits are sort of a family ritual. John is featured in today's photo.
We were on the trail at 9:40am. It was hot and humid again today. I am sure it reached the predicted high of 91 degrees.
At about 2:00pm we were clambering over a huge pile of boulders (one of many in PA) known as Bear Rocks when we came upon a couple guys stationed at a viewpoint looking east. They had big binoculars and big viewing scopes. A little later we passed two more men on their way to join the others. One of them, the one carrying a big plastic, electronic owl, asked if we had seen his "raptor counters" up on top. We said we had, but did not know they were counting raptors. He briefly explained the importance of counting raptors, and said he used his owl to attract them. We left wondering if buzzards were included in their count.
At 4:50pm we crossed PA Highway 309 and walked 100 yards to the Blue Mountain Summit Restaurant. We ordered cheeseburgers and waited about an hour before we we served, but we were patient and the burgers were tasty and filling. It was now 6:30pm, but we walked another four miles before stopping for the day at 8:00pm.
Today we walked from Lehigh Gap, PA 873, trail mile 931.1, to a stealth campsite near Allentown Hiking Club Shelter, trail mile 948.5, a total of 17.4 miles for the day.
God's richest blessings to you all.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Whiskers
Location For The Night: Pocahontas Spring
Miles Walked Today: 19.30
Day Number:
61
We broke camp and were walking at 6:15am today. It was another hot one, probably in the 90s again this afternoon. A local man that was walking the trail for exercise said hot weather was forecast for the rest of this week.
At 8:45am we passed an older man with a snow white, neatly trimmed beard. He was a small man but his backpack was huge. When we stopped to talk he smiled, mumbled and gave me a laminated card that said he was a stroke victim and could not talk plainly nor understand everything others were saying. He could not pronounce his name nor tell us how old he was. I looked at his huge backpack again and thought about how minor my aches and pains are in comparison with what he's been through - and going through. And, I thought about the guts it takes for him just to be out here hiking, particularly in 90 degree heat. Tears welled up in my eyes and I told him it was an honor for me to meet him.
At 9:45am we overtook south bound section hiker, Whiskers (today's photo), who has let his hair and beard grow since 1972. His home is Detroit, MI, and he has been section hiking the AT for 12 non-consecutive years. This summer is his first hike in four years. He has been needed at home to help his daughter and grandchild that live with him.
At 5:00pm we reached a place called Pocahontas Spring where there is a good spring and campsite, but no shelter. We pitched our tents, ate supper and retired.
Today we walked from a stealth campsite near Allentown Hiking Club Shelter, trail mile 948.5, to a campsite at Pocahontas Spring, trail mile 967.8, a total of 19.3 miles for the day.
God bless all of you.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
One Mile Short
Location For The Night: Stealth site at mile 988.2
Miles Walked Today: 20.40
Day Number:
62
Today's constitutional walk began at 6:20am when we once again left our campsite and turned south on the good old AT. (We always have to remember which side of the trail we are camped on otherwise we could get turned around. The white blazes are the same going north as they are headed south.)
Rural Pennsylvania with all its neat, well tended farms offers spectacular, pastoral views, both to the east and to the west, from the top of this ridge we walk every day. Pennsylvania is one of my favorite AT states.
At 7:45am we walked out of the woods on to Penn Street in Port Clinton, PA. We continued another 1/2 mile to the 3-Cs Family restaurant for breakfast. We also ordered five ham and cheese foot-long sandwiches to go; three for Flax, two for me.
Next it was back down Penn Street to the outfitter, Ye Olde Backpacker, to pick up my drop box and re-bounce my bounce box. Antonio Alaimo, who we met on Saturday at Lehigh Gap, was on duty at the store and helped me with my boxes.
The blackberries are getting fatter, juicer and sweeter by the day, and, they are within easy reach, right next to the trail. Today's photo should give you an idea how lush they are.
At 1:00pm we met section hiker, El Doctor, heading north. He told us that two southbounders, Brewer and Rojo, are only about four hours ahead of us. We've been hearing about these two for two or three weeks. And, we knew from the register at the "Jail Hostel" in Palmerton, PA, that they were one day ahead of us this past Sunday. Now we are right on their heels. This is certainly not a race, but it's sort of fun to pretend it is. We'll catch them. We just don't know when.
At 5:45pm it started to thunder, the breeze freshened and the woods became eerily dark. We immediately started to look for a campsite, and found one at 6:15pm, about a mile short of our planned destination, and, about ten minutes too late. We got drenched pitching our tents - soaked to the bone. But, by the time we had our tents mopped out and had eaten some of our foot long sandwiches, the rain was over. We hung our food bags, strung up a clothes line for the wet clothing, and retired for the night.
Today we walked from Pocahontas Spring, trail mile 967.8, to a stealth campsite at approximate trail mile 988.2, a total of 20.4 miles for the day.
May the Lord bless you as you willingly, by faith, trust in His Son, the one and only Savior and Lord, Jesus Christ.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Shoe Repair
Location For The Night: stealth campsite at trail mile 1,006.2
Miles Walked Today: 18.40
Day Number:
63
We did not start walking today until 7:04am because I had a problem with my shoes. Yesterday afternoon I noticed that the sole was coming loose on my right shoe. It was flapping in the breeze. This is a major deal for any hiker, especially one that wears a size 16 shoe. Few shoe stores have my size.
I stopped on the trail and tried duct tape. That lasted about ten minutes. Then, everything got wet at camp and it was dark so I told Flaxseed I would repair it in the morning.
Morning came and I tried sewing it with regular polyester sewing thread. That lasted about an hour. Next, at 10:30am, when we stopped at a sunny spot to eat and dry our gear on warm rocks, I tried sewing it with dental floss. That lasted about 30 minutes. I told Flaxseed what I really needed was some wire and we both agreed that I might find something at the next shelter site.
At 12:30pm we arrived at 501 Shelter. I walked to the caretaker's house to see if he had any wire. He furnished me with a length of 12 gauge, copper electrical wire, wire pliers, and side cutting pliers. Now I've got my flapping sole laced together with six neat copper stitches. As of tonight they seem to be holding good. Also, while at the shelter, I called my son, Glen, to have him UPS me a new pair of shoes to Duncannon, PA, a day and a half south. I'm pretty sure I can make it until then.
At 1:36pm we passed north bound section hiker and trail maintenance volunteer, Yoda. He said that Rojo (evidently with a red beard) and Brewer are about six hours ahead of us. We are still on their heels, but, with all the shoe repairs today, we will have to wait awhile to meet them.
This afternoon's weather was a repeat of yesterday afternoon. Thunderstorms. The difference was today we kept walking until the rain stopped and then set up camp. Tonight we are dry.
Today's photo of Antonio Alaimo was taken yesterday at Ye Olde Backpacker in Port Clinton, PA. Antonio will enroll as a freshman at Drexler University in Philadelphia this fall.
Today we walked from a stealth campsite at trail mile 988.2, to a stealth campsite at trail mile 1,006.2, a total of 18.4 miles for the day.
God bless you all.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Foggy Day
Location For The Night: stealth campsite at trail mile 1,027.1
Miles Walked Today: 20.50
Day Number:
64
Last night it dripped all night long. It was very light, more like a heavy dew than rain. But, it makes everything wet and clammy. This morning we awakened to a dense fog and more dripping. We packed up and started walking in the drip at 6:58am.
The remainder of the day was fairly uneventful. It stayed foggy and overcast. A mid-afternoon thunderstorm threatened but missed us to the north. Then it cleared up and turned breezy.
We hiked over mostly good trail, most of the time on top of the ridge, which is as narrow as fifty feet in some places. In spots it falls off precipitously.
We only saw four other people today. Early this afternoon we met two section hikers headed north. We all said howdy and hiked on. Later, we saw a local couple enjoying a walk along Clark's Creek near PA Highway 325.
Our planned destination for the day was the Peters Mountain Shelter site. We thought we would be there at about 6:30pm. But, we noticed that no tent sites were available there. (Our guidebooks include this information.) So, we started looking for a campsite. At 5:30pm we spotted an excellent stealth site in a grove of trees to the west of the trail. We took it.
Today's photo shows the copper "hog rings" holding the soles of my shoes to the upper part. This is the repair job I wrote about yesterday. Tomorrow, at Duncannon, PA, these shoes will go in a trash can. I've got new ones waiting there.
Today we walked from a stealth campsite at trail mile 1,006.6, to another stealth campsite at trail mile 1,027.1, a total of 20.5 miles for the day.
God's richest blessings to all of you.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Doyle Hotel
Location For The Night: Doyle Hotel, Duncannon, PA
Miles Walked Today: 14.00
Day Number:
65
It was windy all night long but the wind stayed high in the trees and did not do much to dissipate the heat and humidity. We were both hot and sweaty in our tents. But, to get to Georgia one must continue to walk which is what we did beginning at 6:45am.
At 7:45am we walked in to Peter's Mountain Shelter to fetch water. Six southbound hikers were just finishing breakfast, the first southbounders we've seen in a good while. Rojo and Brewer, the two we've known about for a couple of weeks, were two of them. Rojo from Greenville, SC, just graduated from Fuhrman University. Brewer, from Atlanta, GA, graduated from Georgia Tech. They started at Mount Katahdin on May 31st. We did not get the other hikers' trail names.
At 11:45am we stopped at Clark's Ferry Shelter for lunch and water. As we ate a violent, fast moving thunderstorm roared in from the southwest. Fortunately, we waited it out in the dry then hiked on.
At 2:00pm we descended to the Susquehanna River, crossing it on the Clark's Ferry Bridge. Next was a long road walk through Duncannon, PA, to the ATs famous Doyle Hotel where we were literally greeted at the doorstep by Vickey, the owner. We knew we were at right place when the first thing she said was, "I bet you guys are ready for ice water." Flaxseed said, "There's a smart lady. She knows what hikers need." We rented a $30.00 room for the night (no AC with the bath down the hall), took showers, did laundry, caught the 4:00pm free shuttle to Mutzabaugh's Market for resupply, sorted and packed our food, took a deep breath, and went downstairs to the hotel restaurant where Pat, Vickey's husband, served us big steaks, baked potatoes with lots of sour cream, and delectable homemade slaw. We topped it all off with Haagen-Dazs pints in our room.
Today's photo is the Doyle Hotel. Our room is on the third floor in the back. Rojo and Brewer are also in residence here tonight.
Today we walked from a stealth campsite at trail mile 127.1, to Duncannon, PA, trail mile 141.1, a total of 14.0 miles for the day.
May God bless each of you.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Walnuts & Beans
Location For The Night: America's Best Inn, trail mile 1,058.7
Miles Walked Today: 17.60
Day Number:
66
There was a good breeze blowing through our third floor, corner room last night, but neither of us could get to sleep before 1:00am. It was too hot and humid. After 1:00am it cooled enough that we got good rest until 6:00am.
We packed up and walked across the street to Goodies Restaurant for breakfast. I ate breakfast there on Father's Day, June 17, 2007. Trina (today's photo), our waitress, served me then and she served us today. In 2007 tears came to my eyes when she wrote "Happy Father's Day" on the back of my check. I reminded her of this and she remembered me.
It was cloudy, close and muggy all day without a breath of air. Sticky and uncomfortable. We had a smattering of rain off and on.
We had a steep climb out of Duncannon (325') to Cove Mountain (1,200'), dropped down to PA Highway 850 (650'), and climbed back up to 1,200' at Darlington Shelter before descending down to the Cumberland Valley section of the AT. The Cumberland Valley Appalachian Trail Club does an excellent job of maintaining this 17 mile section of of gently rolling terrain. But, because much of it runs through private pasture fields and cultivated land, or lies in a narrow government owned corridor with private land on each side, no camping is permitted in the Cumberland Valley section. This, and news that Hurricane Bill is pushing some nasty weather up this way, and our desire to eat two more town meals "forced" us to make plans for a motel room tonight. Such is our hard life on the trail.
We are a few days north of Maryland border and the Mason-Dixon Line but things are starting to look awful southern. Yesterday we were surprised when we saw a cypress tree, and today, in the Cumberland Valley section, we saw big walnut trees (and walnuts) and a big field of soy beans. Polk greens are abundant and the poison ivy is healthier too. Flaxseed, from Houston, TX, and I are starting to feel at home.
At 5:30pm we reached US Highway 11, scampered down the highway embankment, and walked .3 miles to an America's Best Inn. We ate supper next door at the Middlesex Diner, one of the best, if not the best, we've had to date. We both ordered full racks of baby back pork ribs with all the fixings. I took a triple-dip mint chocolate chip sundae back to the room. Flax was full and had to pass. We are doing our best to keep our weight up but it's hard to do.
Today we walked from Duncannon, PA, trail mile 1,041.1, to US Highway 11, trail mile 1,058.7, a total of 17.6 miles for the day.
My only and best brother, Ross Arterburn, will turn 62 tomorrow and become eligible to "draw" his old folks' pension from Uncle Sam. Happy birthday Ross. Have a good one.
God bless you all.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Boiling Springs
Location For The Night: Pine Grove Road, Cherokee Campground
Miles Walked Today: 19.70
Day Number:
67
Last night's rest at America's Best Inn, predominately a trucker's motel, was the best we've had yet. The AC unit was quiet and efficient and we both slept soundly.
We had good breakfasts at the Middlesex Diner and returned to the hotel for the a courtesy shuttle back to the trail. The shuttle runs on the half-hour 24 hours a day shuttling truck drivers for several national carriers from their nearby terminals. It's a busy place. Interstate 81 and the Pennsylvania Turnpike converge here. We were back on the trail at 8:06am.
We missed Hurricane Bill and any rain associated with him. It was somewhat cooler this morning but hot this afternoon with a little less humidity than we've had for the past week.
This morning's walk was an easy, fairly level eight miles through pastures, corn fields, soybean fields and woods. At 11:00am we reached Boiling Springs, PA, a picturesque village surrounding Boiling Springs Lake (today's photo), the cold, clear outflow of Boiling Spring. I picked up a drop box at Garmanhaus B&B, we ate sub sandwiches for lunch at Anile's Ristorante, and stopped for water at the ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional Office which was closed for the day.
The afternoon's walk took us back up on the ridge where we walked through several rocky obstacle courses that added variety to the roller coaster ups and downs.
At 5:30pm we came to PA Highway 34 and walked up the hill to Green Mountain Store where we bought burgers for tonight, breakfast sandwiches for tomorrow morning, drinks, and, of course, ice cream. We stuffed it in our packs and walked the final .9 miles of the day to Cherokee Campground on Pine Grove Road. We rented a "primitive" cabin (electricity and beds, but no sheets, towels or AC) for the night, showered in the bathhouse, ate our supper and ice cream and retired. It's going be cool tonight with much lower humidity, a good night for sleep.
Today we walked from US Highway 11, trail mile 1,058.7, to Pine Grove Road, Cherokee Campground, trail mile 1,078.4, a total of 19.7 miles for the day.
May the God of all mercy bless you all.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Half Way
Location For The Night: stealth campsite at trail mile 1,100.2
Miles Walked Today: 21.80
Day Number:
68
The RV campground was quiet last night and the primitive cabin suited our needs, though it was hardly worth the $50 nightly fee. But, it did come equipped with a mini-fridge and a microwave oven, just what we needed to warm up our breakfast sandwiches. We were traveling south again at 7:40am.
Walking out of the campground two coonhounds were baying in a pen beside the road. We're definitely getting closer to being "down" south. I don't think there are many coon hunters or coon dogs "up" north. And, yesterday afternoon we passed a sign that said "Mason-Dixon Trail."
The weather was near perfect today. The temperature was probably in the low 80s with low humidity and a good breeze all day. Both of us commented on how little we stink tonight.
At 11:00am we stopped at Pine Grove Furnace State Park for lunch. It is an AT tradition to celebrate finishing half of the trail distance by eating a half-gallon of ice cream at the camp store. Flaxseed and I settled for double-dip cups of butter pecan. We love our ice cream but a half-gallon is too much.
At 12:45pm we crossed the actual half-way point for this year. (This varies from year to year as the trail is re-routed, etc.) Today's photo shows the small, temporary sign at this location. Sort of a let down.
At 3:09pm we passed an area next to the trail about four feet square neatly bordered by logs. There was a small wooden box inside the enclosure with a plaque inside that read: "BARTLEBY - A true dog - gone but not forgotten." Someone loved Bartleby very much.
On a day like today we are tempted to increase our mileage. But, we have to keep telling ourselves that this is a marathon, not a sprint. We want to finish this thing, not crash and burn. We found a good stealth campsite at 5:45pm and called it a day.
Today we walked from Pine Grove Road, trail mile 1,078.4, to a stealth campsite at trail mile 1,100.2 (approx.), a total of 21.8 miles for the day.
God bless all of you.
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